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May 14, 2008

San Giovanni and Brunello

DionysiusIt seems that the Brunello scandal is still brewing. Brunello is a clone made from 100% Sangiovese, the main grape of Chianti fame. Being a neophyte, I was under the impression that Brunello's history had a longer trail. Not so. The current industry has its roots in the 1960's. What I do know is that Brunello di Montalcino has a certain cache and is one of the most expensive Italian red wines. Most of the market is in the United States. Brunellopoli and in purezza is not really a new story. The rumors of other varietals in the mix have been around for years. So why now? Who knows. This is not good for the Italian wine industry in general. The producers, five in all, are mostly major concerns. Unfortunately, the whole brooha comes at a time when the prices of all European wines have experienced a big uptick. If you are going to charge outlandish prices for a bottle of wine, at least insure that it is in purezza.

History and holy sources are not to be ignored. When matters get this bad, the Italian winemakers should take heed and have a talk with the gods that are in charge.

Jeremy Parzen clears up some of the misinformation being spread in the wake of the Brunello controversy.

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